TIE KNOTS THE FUN AND EASY WAY
Better to know a knot and not need it, than need a knot and not know it.
Klemheist Knot (Machard, French Prusik)
Climbing Index Climbing Usage
Alpine Butterfly Bend Alpine Butterfly Loop Blake's Hitch Bowline Chain Sinnet Clove Hitch (Half Hitches) Double Alpine Butterfly Directional Fig 8 Loop Distel Hitch Double Fisherman's Double O'hand Stopper Fig 8 Bend (Join) Fig 8 Double Loop Fig 8 Follow Loop Flat Overhand (EDK) Girth (Strap) Hitch Klemheist Munter Mule One-Handed Bowline Prusik Knot Water Knot Zeppelin Bend
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Animation: Klemheist (Machard, French Prusik) Knot Tying
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Klemheist (Machard, French Prusik) Knot TyingUse a piece of cord formed into a loop. Pass the loop around the main rope. Make three complete turns, laying each turn on neatly. Pass the rest of the cord through the loop and pull it back down in the direction of the expected load.
Klemheist (Machard, French Prusik) Knot Details
History: The Klemheist is a derivative of the original Prusik knot. It also appears to be identical to the knot described by Ashley for securing a loop to a vertical pole (ABOK # 1762, p 299). However, Ashley did not name this knot and did not describe the slide and grip feature.
Structure: The knot requires a "Prusik Loop" which is constructed by joining the two ends of a length of rope using a Double Fisherman's or a Triple Fisherman's.
Slide and Grip Knots: The Klemheist is a good example of the family of "Slide and Grip" knots. It may be the preferred choice when the load is known to be in one direction only. The Autoblock (Machard Tresse) and the Bachmann perform a similar function but both require a locking carabiner.
Risk: Only pull on the Prusik Loop. Do not grip the knot itself and pull because the knot then slips. Similarly with the Bachmann: don't pull on the carabiner because this quickly releases the grip.
Variations: With these knots the number of turns should be increased or decreased to suit the ropes and the conditions, i.e., before using any Slide and Grip knot, test it to see that it both grips and releases well.
Rope Size: These knots must be made using a rope smaller than the load bearing rope, e.g., 5 or 6 mm cord around the climbing rope. The effectiveness of these knots diminishes as the sizes of the two ropes approach each other.
Disclaimer: Any activity that involves ropes is potentially hazardous. Lives may be at risk - possibly your own. Considerable attention and effort have been made to ensure that these descriptions are accurate. However, many critical factors cannot be controlled, including: the choice of materials; the age, size, and condition of ropes; and the accuracy with which these descriptions have been followed. No responsibility is accepted for incidents arising from the use of this material.